Adventure in Argentina

Ciao!

2011-03-01T09:06:00.000-08:00

Well, "all good things...", our joint journey is over and considering the dimensions of Argentina (top to bottom is the equivalent of London to Athens), "we 'aven't 'alf covered some ground!" It's been like 5 different countries with such noticable changes in climate, landscape, culture, flora/fauna, people and activities.
But the one common denominator throughout has been the people - wonderful, kind, open and friendly - we never saw any ugliness or dispute. The Argentinians are gracious, curious and really helpful - they love to have a laugh, too. In spite of the savage blows and inequity they've suffered at the hands of tawdry and corrupt governments, they're surprisingly optimistic and courageous. So it's "don't cry for me our Anita", (note the huge weight loss in a month - trousers now a lot looser!), Fi stays another 3 weeks (timing return with the blooming of the daffodils) and well, for now, it's over and out.

Tango in the Park

2011-02-28T08:20:00.000-08:00

If a woman were seen stroking her foot up a man's leg almost to his crotch and then being dragged along with only the tips of her stiletto shoes touching the ground as she clings on to his shoulders staring passionately into his eyes wearing a slinky skirt split up to her hip, they would probably be carted off by the police. But here it's an everyday sight as you sit and enjoy a cold beer in the sunshine.

Recoleta Park

2011-02-28T08:12:00.000-08:00

From San Telmo, we took the bus to Recoleta, the barrio with a distinct Parisian feel. Buenos Aires is simply a fandango fabuloso (party central) every Sunday. The parks are full of picnic-ers, live bands, jugglers, tumblers, people blowing bubbles, dancing, merrymaking and performers in outrageous costumes. FUN meter in the red (with no yobs, drunks or chavs!)

Strolling through San Telmo

2011-02-28T08:11:00.001-08:00

San Telmo Market

2011-02-28T08:11:00.000-08:00

Back in Buenos Aires, it's Sunday, the day that the barrio of San Telmo comes alive with an antiques and bric-a-brac market along a half-mile street of endless fun and fancy goods. There's beautiful hand-crafted jewellery and great leather. No pushing or shoving, just lots of live

music and old men, eyes closed, playing seductive tango tunes on battered accordians. Wonderful vibe!

Arrechea Waterfall, Iguazu

2011-02-28T08:10:00.000-08:00

This small waterfall and pool was the site of the main Iguazu falls thousands of years ago - they've since receded along the main riverbed due to erosion.

Macuco Trail

2011-02-28T08:05:00.000-08:00

After a long, sweaty, sticky stroll through the jungle, we were rewarded with a dip in this pool, the only place you can swim in Iguazu Park. As we had no bathing gear, we just swam in our dresses.

Wildlife

2011-02-28T08:04:00.000-08:00

There's rich wildlife here, more than 430 species of birds (saw toucans with huge orange cartoon beaks), 70 species of mammals (eg pumas, tapirs, capuchin and howler monkeys) and friendly coati with their spriped tails. We took a long walk through the jungle and saw electric blue butterflies the size of our hand and an alarmingly large lizard. The spiders were big, too, and as we walked along we sometimes collided with their webs and had to fight to get them off. If someone had seen us from a distance they'd have thought we were having some strange fit! One monster spider (with segmented limbs ie forearm, upper arm and deltoid) was devouring a poor flapping butterfly. Younger sis wanted to catapult a stone at it like Denis the Menace and break the web but older sis squeezed her arm restrainingly and said, "the spiders have a right to be here, too, and they're an important part of the ecosystem"....and we moved gently on.

Moving Water

2011-02-28T08:03:00.001-08:00

Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat)

2011-02-28T08:03:00.000-08:00

This is the park's centrepiece and is indescribably beautiful, an impressive mixture of noise, views and energy.

There's so much water here at the moment after excessive rainfall that we couldn't see anywhere near the bottom for spray and mist.

Circuito Inferior

2011-02-28T08:02:00.000-08:00

A series of steep stairs and walkways with superb views took us down to the water's edge and up close to one section of the falls. The sounds were thunderous and we got drenched but didn't care in our quick-drying, polyester dresses!

Circuito Superior

2011-02-28T08:01:00.000-08:00

This trail took us along the westernmost line of the falls allowing us to see them from above.

Anita at Iguazu Falls

2011-02-28T08:00:00.000-08:00

Spectacular Iguazu Falls

2011-02-28T07:59:00.003-08:00

The Falls in Action

2011-02-28T07:59:00.002-08:00

Iguazu Falls

2011-02-28T07:59:00.001-08:00

If ever there were an interplanetary beauty contest (a sort of Miss Universe for Locations), Earth's entry would be Iguazu. Nowhere encapsulates the magic and abundance of this world in such style: huge irridescent butterflies, billions of gallons of tumbling water, thunder, cool mist enshrouding vivid colours of ancient rocks and forest. Gigantic dragon flies hover in the spray, huge condors soar overhead, bright toucans fly acoss billowing white cumulus in a blue blue sky, the whole scene encircled by shiny bright rainbows. Our lives are without doubt richer for having seen this magnificent place.

Arriving at Iguazu Falls

2011-02-28T07:58:00.001-08:00

With no washbag or clean clothes, Anita's body odour was face-crumpling, her one outfit minging in the heat and humidity. So the Guide, unable to carry on without nose pegs, marched us into a shop and we bought these 2 polyester dresses for a tenner which we wore the whole time - even went swimming in them at the Falls - they turned out to be just the ticket because they dried in seconds. Fortunately our luggage was at Iguazu airport when we checked in to leave two days later.

Hito Tres Fronteras (3 Borders Landmark)

2011-02-28T07:58:00.000-08:00

You can see 3 countries and the Iguazu River from this point. Young kids were hawking orchid plants and little rolls of the local chipita bread made from mandioc root (very tasty).

We're standing in Argentina with impressive views over the rivers and neighbouring Brazil on the right and Paraguay on the left.

From Salta to Iguazu

2011-02-28T07:57:00.001-08:00

To save time, we opted to fly from Salta to Iguazu rather than take the bus which would've taken 24 hours. DISASTER! The airline lost our bags so for two days at Iguazu Falls we had only our backpacks. Our travel clothes were filthy and far too warm for the swelteringly hot subtropical climate. While waiting for our bags to arrive, we took a stroll up an attracitve costanera (coastal path) along the Rio Iguazu, past a small port where boats were leaving for cruises to Paraguay and on up to a spectacular viewpoint high above the meeting of the two rivers, Parana and Iguazu, known as the Hito Tres Fronteras (3 borders landmark). The tropical flowers are lovely - they really are almost as good as the silk ones in John Lewis!

Mama Paca Restaurant

2011-02-28T07:56:00.000-08:00

Thanks to the 'Footprint' guidebook, we found this charming and cheap Spanish eatery serving mouthwatering fresh fish. The waiter, more bull than matador, was a jolly Spanish telly-tubby who kept the wine coming - a delicious, crisp Torrontes (white) from Cafayate for 5 quid a bottle.

Argentinian Tradition

2011-02-28T07:53:00.000-08:00

Two very typical expressions of Salta - folkloric costumes and allegedly the best empenadas in Argentina - we had no argument with that - the selection of beer, chicken and cheese tasted even better with the local beer.

Salta's Main Plaza and Cathedral

2011-02-23T12:01:00.000-08:00

Now in the northwest of Argentina in Salta, one of the country's most charismatic and historical cities. It's the least "Europeanised" and home to most of the country's indigenous people. This is the Cathedral in the central plaza painted in a very attractive pastel pink and beautifully illuminated at night.

Wild Waters - Fancy a Dip?

2011-02-23T11:30:00.000-08:00

A really red river coloured by all the surrounding minerals, particularly clay and iron. Rafting here would be more like red-water rafting rather than white.

Argentina's Monument Valley

2011-02-23T11:18:00.000-08:00

This is Argentina's very own Monument Valley, interesting shapes formed by years of wind and rain erosion.

El Anfiteatro (Amphitheatre)

2011-02-23T10:58:00.000-08:00

A spot of live music helped us appreciate the acoustics in this natural amphitheatre.

Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat)

2011-02-23T10:57:00.000-08:00

Rock Formations

2011-02-23T10:35:00.000-08:00

Labelled imaginatively with the names of the things they resemble, these striking rocks have been eroded over the millenia by wind and rain. The one on the left is the 'Sinking Titanic' and on the right, the ´Castles'.

Cafayate Gorge

2011-02-23T10:13:00.000-08:00

This landscape is a delicious feast of colour : chocolate-coloured mountains, raspberry-ripple strata, pistachio and treacle peaks and rhubarb and cream, all on a burnt treacle platter.

We think this sign means, "If you look without seeing, the ground will seem no more than just the ground." (Our interpretation : look beyond...see the beauty and intelligence in Nature)

Quebrada de las Conchas (Gorge of Shells)

2011-02-23T09:58:00.000-08:00

Heading south from Salta to Cafayate, we drove through this amazing stretch of road following the longest river in Argentina that flows into the Atlantic Ocean north of Buenos Aires.

Maimara

2011-02-23T09:38:00.000-08:00

Maimara is a tranquil oasis village with green fields of onion and garlic set in contrast with this backdrop of richly coloured marbled rock known as 'La Paleta del Pintor'. The colours in the strata are formed by many different minerals

including iron, sulphur, quartz, copper, clay and even bodies of old crustacea (it used to be under water). There's a huge cemetery on the hillside, always brightly decorated at Easter.

Tilcara

2011-02-23T08:36:00.000-08:00

Tilcara is the site of an important pre-Hispanic settlement and this is the restored hilltop fortress with magnificent panoramic views of the gorge. These pictures don't capture the spirit of the place which was truly palpable - we knew we were on a site of extraordinary beauty and ancient wisdom. In their humble adobe dwellings, they made food, jewellery, pots and ate the local hallucinogenic plants - can you imagine what a bad day it must've been when they saw the Spanish army approaching, brandishing crosses and swords?!

Tilcara

2011-02-23T08:20:00.000-08:00

A very important archeological site where the indigenous people lived before the Incas came in the 1400's. (It reminded us a bit of Scara Brae in the Orkneys.) Scholars from Buenos Aires university visit frequently to research this early culture.

Menu in Humahuaca

2011-02-23T08:11:00.000-08:00

Might look and sound a bit "mud-hut" but the food was scrumptious and nutritious. We fancied the Goat Stew but weren't too sure about the "morron" that came with it.

Humahuaca

2011-02-23T07:54:00.000-08:00

This is the view from the top of the steps where this Monumento a la Independencia Argentina commemorates the war of independence and the liberation of Argentina from the Spanish. The Argies are very patriotic and these statues are everywhere.

Humahuaca

2011-02-23T07:35:00.000-08:00

3000m high set in an Andean gorge, this town is a labyrinth of narrow streets, low adobe houses, a central plaza, a pretty church and a lively market full of splashy colours. The parrot is perched on a dried cactus and Anita had an animated conversation with it (after a few lunchtime cervezas). Note the very traditional fire-engine red poncho that is the typical garment of this area.

Purmamaca

2011-02-23T07:11:00.000-08:00

A fascinating village set at the foot of the Cerro de los Siete Colores (a mountain striped with 7 colours seen in the distance), we mooched round a fab market selling llama, alpaca and vicuna wool goods, weaving and jewellery.

We couldn't resist buying a couple of pairs of earrings made of local stone and cactus wood.

Quebrada de Humahuaca

2011-02-23T06:52:00.000-08:00

Starting in the city of Jujuy, this is the main route heading north to Bolivia and one of the most dramatic landscapes we've ever seen. It justly deserves the title conferred on it by UNESCO in 2003 - a World Heritage Site. This long gorge has intensely coloured rock of terracotta, yellow, orange, pink, cream and malachite-green strata dotted with humungus cacti.

St Martin Statue

2011-02-21T18:14:00.000-08:00

The most famous statue of St. Martin in Mendoza on a hill just outside town, this represents Argentina breaking the chains of Spanish domination and is a flamboyant and bold expression of their freedom and independence.

Parrilla (Steakhouse)

2011-02-21T18:03:00.000-08:00

Parrilla is the steakhouse where asado (barbecue) is prepared - this one was a "tenedor libre" ie all-you-can-eat for about 8 quid. It had smoldering coals and carcasses pinned up over the flames with every cut of meat you can imagine - made your mouth water. These eateries are all over town.

Mendoza Winery

2011-02-21T17:45:00.000-08:00

Wine is grown in Argentina along the length of the Andean foothills. Mendoza is probably the most famous spot - here the climate is ideal : warm, sunny days and cold nights give the grapes a rich flavour. The magical ingredient, though, is the water carried here in the original irrigation canals made by pre-Incan cultures which still carry pure, mineral rich, snow melt from the Andes, compensating for the low rainfall. We visited this bodega called La Rural where we saw an amazing display of implements for winemaking dating back to pre-Colombian times - skin of an entire cow where grapes were trodden in the belly and juice flowed out of the tail. All the big storage casks were made of French and American oak but now they use stainless steel as well. Argentina exports its wines worldwide, the most famous being Malbec, but its Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and the white Torrontes and Chardonnay are pretty good, too.

Museo del Pasado Cuyano

2011-02-21T17:34:00.000-08:00

This is a beautiful 1870's mansion, one of the oldest houses in Mendoza, a museum was full of furniture, arms, documents and paintings and was the home/offices of the governors of Mendoza.

Plaza Independencia and Espana

2011-02-21T17:22:00.000-08:00

Mendoza is full of beautiful plazas - Independencia is a popular meeting place with shady acacia and plane trees and pretty fountains.

The most attractive is Plaza Espana, famous for its beautiful tiling and a great place to sit and admire the murals displaying Argentina's historical episodes; this one depicts the arrival of the Spanish.

Mendoza

2011-02-21T17:16:00.000-08:00

Our first night in Mendoza, the wine capital of Argentina (we weren't going to miss this place out) - this is the centre of town, Plaza Independencia - and this is their municipal emblem - a handshake, a sun and a mushroom - we're going to like it here.

Bingo!

2011-02-21T17:05:00.000-08:00

We're travelling round the whole country by bus and are delighted at how luxurious they are. On this most recent trip from San Martin de los Andes to Mendoza, we were served a delicious hot dinner with WINE! The steward clocked the two partying Inglesas and kept coming back to fill up our cups. The films were in English with subtitles and then we all played bingo and guess who won?! All those childhood holidays in Bridlington paid off, we had to shout out "BINGO ANDESMAR" (name of the coach company) and we were handed a bottle of delicious Malbec while fellow Argie passengers muttered something about the Islas Malvinas (Falklands) but we took no notice and kept drinking.

The Summit (El Cumbre)

2011-02-18T13:54:00.000-08:00

On reaching the summit, we protected ourselves from the fierce wind behind a shelter of volcanic rocks like half an igloo built by fellow trekkers. Our guide, Diego, unwrapped a picnic of croissants (medialunas) using stones to secure the 4 corners of our paper table...accompanied by mate ('mattay', their bitter green herbal drink). Clouds floated by just above our heads as if we could almost touch them. Tea and croissants never tasted so good.

Lanin National Park

2011-02-18T10:40:00.000-08:00

We climbed to the top of one of the many volcanoes here called Cerro Colorado and with the guide's slow pace, Anita found it a doddle and amazingly enough quite enjoyable. From this promontory we could see clearly into Chile.

Volcano Colorado

2011-02-18T10:38:00.000-08:00

Our last day in Patagonia, I suggested a final hike, to which Anita hissed, "you mean a bloody TREK up the sheer face of another poxy mountain?!" Understandably a bit reluctant to go after the last crippling experience, she gave in because there was a minimum of 2 people required to go and no-one else had signed up (Anita : "ooh there's a surprise!").
We trekked through luscious woodland, across babbling brooks and carpets of yellow flowers. The trees were draped in what's known as "old man's beard", a wispy draping parasite which feels like a loofah and doesn't harm the host tree.

London Bus - San Martin

2011-02-18T10:27:00.000-08:00

Goodness knows how a London bus got here. This town is named after the great hero, San Martin el Libertador. Born in 1778, he served in Spanish armies from the age of 15 and later joined the supporters of S. American independence in Buenos Aires, replacing Belgrano as commander. Through his brilliance and cunning and in true Hannibal style, he crossed the Andes in 20 days with over 7,250 men, 3,600 mules and 1,200 horses, defeating the Spanish with a conclusive victory at Maipu in Chile. He then led his forces on to Peru where he negotiated a truce with the Spanish, securing independence for S. America against Spanish rule in 1818. Every town has a statue or a street named after him.

Lake Lacar, San Martin de los Andes

2011-02-18T10:21:00.000-08:00

This is a great place for all the sports : whitewater rafting, kayaking, sailing, trekking and even diving. The water is deep and cold but Anita thought a little more suffering would be par for the course so we plunged in, kicking and squealing and got out 3 inches shorter but tingling all over.

San Martin de los Andes

2011-02-18T10:14:00.000-08:00

San Martin is a charming, upmarket town with attractive chalet-style architecture and loads of funky, interesting, colourful shops - felt among kindred spirits. We had to stick to window-shopping because we're on the move with enough baggage.

Kayaing on Lake Machanico

2011-02-18T09:44:00.000-08:00

Left Bariloche and journeyed by bus along the jaw-droppingly beautiful Seven Lakes Drive to San Martin de los Andes which is nestled with its own beach at the end of a long glaciated valley. The lakes here are stunning with crystal-clear water and clean enough to drink, straight off the Andes with abundant bird and fish life and hardly a soul in sight. After the safety brief, we powered off enthusiastically and the guide asked us to slow down, saying however that we were "muy impresionante!"

Cerro Campanario

2011-02-18T09:35:00.000-08:00

Rode the bus along the lake and took the cable car up to the top of this beautiful mountion (also a ski resort in the winter) to enjoy the panoramic views of lakes and mountains stretching out as far as the eye can see to the Chilean border.

Everyone here is so friendly and always keen to know our nationality and names. After saying our names, they say "ah, Princesa Fiona!" at which point Anita says "yes, and her Shrek!"

Grafitti in Bus Stop

2011-02-16T16:51:00.000-08:00

Words in a rinky-tink bus shelter - sometimes grafitti can really pack a punch and we thought this one had a relevant and lively message : "Unwind and enjoy life. By moving too fast, you miss out not only on the journey but you also lose the purpose of where you're going and why."

The Enchanted Wood

2011-02-16T16:45:00.000-08:00

They love their folklore here and within the woodland walk next to Lake Gutierrez we came across gnomes, elves and 'little people' as well as carvings in the tree barks. There was soft piped folksy music being played - all very Lord of the Rings-ish.

Lake Gutierrez

2011-02-16T16:43:00.000-08:00

This beautiful lake just outside Bariloche has crystal-clear water and is close to the ski resort for winter fun.

Bariloche

2011-02-13T12:05:00.000-08:00

Beautifully situated with a lake to the north and high peaks to the south, Bariloche is an ideal place for exploring the Lake District. The alpine, chalet-style architecture was established by early German and Swiss settlers using local stone and
brightly varnished wood with carved gable ends, now ubiquitous throughout the region.

Red 'n' Dead Meat Fest

2011-02-12T17:01:00.000-08:00

Barbecued filet and rump steaks (bife de lomo y chorizo), a mountain of hot, thin, crispy chips and salad sweet-tasting tomatoes, a bottle of Malbec - this is one of the many things this great country has to offer - all for under 35 quid - we love it here!

At the top of Catedral

2011-02-12T09:57:00.000-08:00

Great spot for an Argentinia steak sandwich!

Chair lift in Bariloche

2011-02-12T09:49:00.000-08:00

On a beautiful hot, sunny day, arrived in Bariloche and took this chair lift up to Catedral, considered the best ski resort in S. America. Lots of mountain trails attract hard-core cyclists seen here coming up with their own bikes.
We noticed the back of his rather specialised gilet - raised and ribbed like a crocodile's back - prepared for a bone-shaking ride.

Harmony and the Guide

2011-02-12T09:44:00.000-08:00

Ended our stay in El Bolson with a stroll round the market renowned for its quality handicrafts. We saw these 2 original paintings and felt they were made for us : 'Harmony' and 'The Guide' (Anita doesn't always feel in 'harmony' with the guide!)

Chilling Out after Near-Death Experience

2011-02-12T09:26:00.000-08:00

Anita : After crawling the last near vertical incline in the merciless midday sun (practicalling on my hands and knees) grunting on each exhalation like a Maria Sharapova serve, I collapsed outside a wooden shack (drinking hole) where a very jolly and obliging local whose only English was "be happy" and "free love" took pity on me looking like a wheezing beetroot, stuffed this pipe in my mouth and chirped, "herbs from Paraguay, es bueno!" and it really did the trick in numbing the pain and easing the incipient cardiac arrest (still mildy crippled 3 days later). Another excursion with Frau Hitler!

View coming Down

2011-02-11T12:09:00.000-08:00

The tour guide is getting a ribbing for looking like a ponce off the front cover of 'Patagonia Weekly' while all around are backpackers with nose rings, dreadlocks and harem tie-dye pants.

Taking a Break

2011-02-11T12:04:00.000-08:00

Cold beer by this crystal clear, turquoise river full of trout and salmon - a few of the campers had their rods in the water fly-fishing. The only refreshments for sale were beer and loaves of homemade bread - oh, dear, bread 'n beer!

Hike to El Cajon de Azul

2011-02-11T11:55:00.000-08:00

Another day's hiking, these wood-and-wire bridges (not exactly the "Mae West") were precarious to say the least with several planks missing. Anita had to chunter to herself to make it across.

Trail Down

2011-02-11T11:48:00.000-08:00

The lower slopes were a fresh pea green with all the different grasses, flowers and trees including cinnamon, cypress and beech. Then the tree line stops and towering above is this dramatic escarpment (Anita was whinging about the lack of black cabs).

View from Cerro Piltriquitron

2011-02-11T11:47:00.000-08:00

After a 3-hour hike to 1,400m, we were rewarded with this panoramic view looking towards Chile. Time for another cold beer (it's 5 o'clock somewhere!)

Carved Face

2011-02-11T11:42:00.000-08:00

This enchanted wood was full of whacky carvings, quite surreal.

Sculpture Park

2011-02-10T17:23:00.000-08:00

Part way up the mountain is this scuplture park, fallen trees carved by local craftspeople - a wild pig and a goddess - and Anita somewhere in between the two.

Cerro Piltiquitron

2011-02-10T17:12:00.000-08:00

We hiked up to the jagged peak overlooking the town to enjoy panoramic views and fresh mountain air. No prizes for who was setting the pace and leading the way (Frau Hitler Fitness Nazi).

Refreshing Dip in Melted Glacier

2011-02-10T17:08:00.000-08:00

We tried to cross the river but the water was so deep and fast-flowing, we had to turn back. Having worked up a sweat, it felt great plunging into the icy water.

Parque Nacional Lago Puelo

2011-02-10T16:53:00.000-08:00

This lovely, green wooded park is centred around a turquoise lake on the Chilean border surrounded by beach forest and spiky peaks of snow-dusted, far-off mountains. It's a fisherman's paradise with abundant trout and salmon and just a spectacular spot to pause and ponder.

El Bolson

2011-02-10T16:38:00.000-08:00

Left Valdes Peninsula and took an overnight bus to El Bolson, a seductive little place with a laid-back atmosphere at the foot of the Andes. This lovely earthy statue is the first thing we saw in the early morning light, carved from local, cinnamon-coloured wood. El Bolson is famous for its home-brewed beers, fresh fruit and homemade icecream - it's where thousands of hippies created an ideological community in the 1970's and it's claimed that the surrounding mountains emit healthy positive ions which is why you feel so relaxed here (yeah, right...well we fell for it!)

Welsh Patagonia

2011-02-10T12:56:00.000-08:00

We hired a couple of bikes and cycled along the coast to an interesting little museum that traces the history of the Welsh settlers in Patagonia which makes for one of the most impressive tales of early pioneers in Argentina. 165 Welsh people arrived in 1865 and landed here in Puerto Madryn where they found arable land and created a network of irrigation channels. The Welsh colony was successful selling wool and meat from the sheep they brought over. The language is still alive in a couple of places and they're feted for their excellent Welsh tearooms. (But Anita was peeved as she couldn't find anywhere to watch the England/Wales rugby match.)

Lunch in Puerto Piramides

2011-02-10T12:52:00.000-08:00

As the midday sun took a hold, we interrupted our wildlife safari for lunch on this lovely beach - more fresh fish and ice cold cerveza - YUM!

Valdes Peninsula

2011-02-10T12:34:00.000-08:00

This is our bus to Puerto Piramides, a wonderfully remote place to stay in the middle of wild, natural beauty. It's a nature reserve and was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1999.

Armadillo

2011-02-10T12:31:00.000-08:00

This little fellow was really tame, snuffling around our ankles for food and seemingly enjoying having his hairy back stroked.

Sea Lions

2011-02-10T12:15:00.000-08:00

This is the site of the sealion colony - thousands of them can be seen from the high cliffs in such large numbers that they seem to stretch out like a velvety bronze tide line on the beautiful sandy beaches below. They breed here in Sept and Oct and killer whales can be seen here feeding on the pups and penguins.

Penguin Colony

2011-02-10T12:08:00.000-08:00

The Valdes Peninsula has a wonderful array of marine life, birds and a profusion of Patagonian wildlife of which this penguin colony is a major attraction. They come here to breed and then swim north to Brazil, one of the few penguin colonies that don't return to the Antarctic.

Dinner at Patagonia Restaurant

2011-02-10T11:53:00.000-08:00

Ate a delicious fish dinner in this stylish and beauifully lit restaurant. The fish was called "merluza negra" (black hake) and apparently is a monster, caught only below about 600 ft. It wasn't on the menu but the waiter recommended it as the special catch of the day.

The ceiling portrays a colourful map of the region as well as beautiful paintings of the local oceanic wildlife. A very cool spot!

Puerto Madryn

2011-02-05T09:34:00.000-08:00

This is Patagonia's diving capital and a beautiful coastal town famous for whale-spotting, snorkelng with seals and colonies of penguins (as well as dusky young lads playing beach volleyball). There are great seafood bars on the beach and we stopped at this one for a cold beer.

Yerba Mate

2011-02-05T09:25:00.000-08:00

Somehow we ended up (upon their insistence) in the coach cockpit with the drivers sipping Yerba Mate (pronounced "mattay") from a hollowed gourd stuffed with dried leaves through a bambilla, a perforated metal straw. It´s strong and bitter and is the local equivalent of the Arabic hubbly-bubbly in that it´s passed around. The driver - deadringer for Oliver Hardy - was screaching along at breakneck speed overtaking lorries while drinking his tea and having a ciggie. The guide book says if you´re invited to drink mate, you should always accept - it´s a special Argentinian custom. Well, we wanted to do the right thing!

Coach Trip from Buenos Aires to Puerto Madryn

2011-02-05T09:01:00.000-08:00

Settling down into our "super-luxe" front-row, upper deck coach seats, we embarked on a 17-hour journey from BsAs to Puerto Madryn.

Bidets

2011-02-05T09:00:00.001-08:00

On the subject of loos, although some of the flushes are a bit crude, they nearly all (including the ones in restaurants) contain bidets which we thought very civilised. Even in a small hotel bathroom where there wasn't room for a bidet, the toilet had a 'bum-wash' facility.

Loo flush at train station

2011-02-05T09:00:00.000-08:00

Went to the Bus Terminal to buy our tickets for a 17-hour bus journey down to the Valdes Peninsula. There are a few of these loo flushes in the bus and train stations - a hole in the wall with instructions to pull up on the cord - at least it worked!

Palermo Park

2011-02-05T08:57:00.000-08:00

While walking to the exquisite Japanese Gardens, we passed this beautiful park, one of many in this bustling city.

Palacio Barola

2011-02-05T08:50:00.000-08:00

This astounding building was constructed in 1923 by an Italian textile magnate named Barola. The architectural details were inspired by Dante´s Divine Comedy - the lower floor is Hell, the middle Purgatory and the upper Heaven (we found the lower floors the most appealing). This is the fantastic view of the city from the balcony in ´Heaven´ but it felt hellishly scary to be perched on a tiny balcony so high up with a low ballustrade.

Cafe Tortoni

2011-02-05T08:44:00.000-08:00

This is the most famous cafe in Buenos Aires and the haunt of many illustrious writers, artists and poets. Its high ceilings, ornate stucco, art-nouveau paintings, stained glass, elaborate columns and decorative mirrors plunge you straight back into another era.

MALBA - Museum of Latin American Art in Buenos Aires

2011-02-03T12:57:00.000-08:00

Rounding a corner in this museum, we entered a room and saw this couple lying in bed - THEY were the exhibit - nice work if you can get it...Obviously from the Damian Hirst School of..."god if I can get away with this...."

Recoleta Cemetery

2011-02-03T12:49:00.000-08:00

Eva Peron and other illustrious figures from Argentina´s history are buried here and each family mausoleum tries to out-do the next. There is every imaginable architectural style on the tombs (which are frankly over-the-top).

Tango in Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo

2011-02-03T12:39:00.000-08:00

While enjoying a cup of coffee, this couple began to dance in the plaza. Tango was once the dance of immigrants from the Buenos Aires dockyards and was associated with the lower classes and brothels. It wasn´t until Argentine sailors brought it to Europe through French ports that tango started to become acceptable in polite society in Buenos Aires and now it is of the most internationally recognisable aspects of Argentine culture, reflecting the style and zest of the city.

Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo

2011-02-03T12:36:00.000-08:00

Famous for its antiques and bric-a-brac markets, this shady plaza is enclosed by charming old houses - a great place to relax with a coffee and enjoy the tango.

'Che' Guevara

2011-02-03T12:34:00.000-08:00

Che Guevara is depicted on the crumbling walls of San Telmo - he's the famous revolutionary of S. America who came from Buenos Aires and is recognised as a hero of freedom and change (using violence when necessary).

Two Old Cows

2011-02-03T12:32:00.000-08:00

Just "mooo-ching" around...

Puerto Madero

2011-02-03T12:31:00.000-08:00

Near the city centre, these 19th century docks and warehouses have been successfully transformed into an attractive area of restaurants, bars and hotels. It's a great place for a stroll along the waterside and so close to downtown.

Casa Rosada

2011-02-03T12:24:00.000-08:00

This famous government building contains the offices of the President of Argentina. The pink colour symbolises national unity by blending the colours of the rival factions that fought each other in the 19th century - the Federalists red and the Unitarians white. This is the balcony on which Peron and Evita frequently appeared before the masses gathered in the plaza.

Widest Street in the World

2011-02-03T12:23:00.000-08:00

This street, 9 de Julio, is the world's widest thoroughfare and runs through downtown. With 9 lanes of traffic in each direction, it's impossible to get across in one go.

Colourful Streets of Palermo

2011-02-03T12:04:00.000-08:00

Palermo Barbecue

2011-02-03T12:03:00.000-08:00

Streets of Palermo

2011-02-03T12:02:00.000-08:00

Palermo was originally named after the Italian, Giovanni Palermo, who in the 17th century transformed this area into orchards and vineyards and it remains nestled among groves of trees and mysterious, cobbled streets.
Palermo embodies Buenos Aires' bohemian, creative spirit and the area is characterised by 19th century mansions, antique shops, patio roofs, hip cafes and street art.

Arrival in Buenos Aires

2011-02-02T10:17:00.000-08:00